TWO EXPLORATIONS: SOUTH-WEST AUSTRALIA
1. Cape To Cape Hiking Trail: Camp Site
there is no voice but the damped down bump of the sea behind the dunes that stop the wind from the south that
blows
cold, it blows, it blows through the dark:
there is no voice that
speaks of the hour, of the day, of the track, of the camp, of the bush,
of the sky, of the night,
of the wind that blows cold
through the dark:
there is no
voice in this sheltered hollow, there is nobody else in this place,
there is nobody here to ask, to answer,
only the wind that blows through the dark:
insects beat at the
hissing lamp, the aluminium billy throbs on the stove, the leaves of
the bony peppermint trees
flap as the wind
rushes overhead in the dark:
what if a man
with a voice of the waves that dump, beat down on the beach should come
in from the night through
the dunes, through the heath, through the bush?
what if a man with eyes of fire should come down the track in the dark and sit at the table under the tree where I
heat
my meal and say ‘here I am, mate, at last ...
it’s good to
find you here … you don’t mind if I share this
place with you? … I’ll be no trouble, mate
… and
I'd like to hear how it
goes with your walking ...’
does he stand out there in the dark? does he watch from beyond the circle of light? does he stamp his feet as he
waits to
come in from the wind and the dark?
what if he should stride into
camp and say ‘g’day’? … would I look straight
into his face? and ask him his name?
offer him bread, a slug of soft warm merlot?
pretend that there’s no reason to worry when a
stranger tramps in from the dark? that some other bloke was bound
to
turn up? so that, yes, he was half-expected?
there
are shapes, there are shadows, there are glances among the leaves, and
rustlings like the clearing of a throat,
the scratching
of a chin, the shifting of boots:
the hovering of absence, the hesitation of presence
… is he there? he must be there, someone is there,
wanting, but
he waits, in the fringes of bush he waits, and
he watches:
why does
he not come in from the dark? why does he wait there, why does he hold
back? why does he watch, what
does he want? why so polite, and
so patient?
perhaps this is
his place, perhaps he camps here night after night after night, walks
in from the dark through the dunes
and says ‘good
evening, how are you doing?’
and sets down
his pack and unrolls his swag and boils his billy and stirs the creamy
pasta and says ‘so what about
you, mate? what do you
have to tell me, mate?’
but for now he still waits in the dark and his voice does not boom and his eyes do not flame and his boots do not
creak as he walks but he stands and he waits in
the tightening night and soon I start to think that he surely
wouldn’t mind if I put my head down now, that he would
understand, that he knows what it’s like to slog
in to camp at the end of the
day with a pack and a blistered heel, and so I choke the lamp and worm
into the tent
and the bushwalker sleeping bag and hope for the
best and think of the day to come when I
will shiver in the early morning fog as I take the sandy footpath
through the
dunes to the beach and turn down south and walk the
soft-sanded beaches and the limestone cliffs and the rocky shore
and the slopes of heath and walk on, press on to
the last breath of granite that splays,
bleeds to the salt …
walk on, go right on to the end of the track, to the cape, the Leeuwin, to the lighthouse, stopping here, stopping there,
with
burning ears, to listen for the voice that almost speaks